[DIY Restoration by Red One] Freshened Up the Rusty Engine.

How to

In the previous part, we have mainly polished and cleaned up the engine block, but we have found that the impression is not good because the rubber and other parts of the harness for sensors and electrical components have deteriorated, and some parts rust quickly without painting, so we detailed the painting and repair of the parts attached to the engine. We tried to improve the total impression by doing so.
This is also the first time for us to do this work, and we have made quite a few mistakes, so we will report on those as well.

Engine head aperture painting

I had tried this on the VFR800, but I would also paint the engine head of the CBR with red aperture paint.
When you look through the cover, it is a kind of proof that I took good care of it, and it is completely the domain of my hobby.
The paint for the aperture paint is quite transparent, so after making the black part of the aluminum head invisible, masking, degreasing, and preparing a wire for hanging, the special paint is applied in several coats.

Engine head cover being painted

Engine head cover being painted

After drying a little, it is hung in a simple oven and baked at 80°C for about one hour. An infrared heater was introduced this time to increase heating efficiency. When heated, the paint wrinkles and hardens.

Engine head cover seizing in progress

Engine head cover seizing in progress

I applied a thick coat of paint, as usual, this time because it does not wrinkle unless it is applied very thickly, but as a result of letting it dry while hanging, the thickness of the paint became uneven, and upon closer inspection, the result is a bit disappointing. The shape is complex and wrinkled, so it does not look bad at a glance, and since it is not usually visible, we decided to give it a DIY "flavor".

After engine head cover seizure

After the engine head cover seizure

Cleaning and painting of oil pan, clutch cover, and coolant pipes

In addition to the head cover, the oil pan, clutch cover, and coolant pipes, which have a large area and are easily visible with dirt, are painted with a gun coat. The outside of the oil pan and clutch cover are polished with a metal brush, and the inside is soda blasted. After that, they are painted with a gun coat and baked in a toaster with a temperature control function.

Clutch cover after painting

Clutch cover after painting

The cooling pipe had a hole in it and was discontinued, and we could not find parts for it in Japan, so we tried our first overseas auction. Fortunately (?) I was able to get it at a low price because it was an unpopular and small part. I sandblasted the parts I received to remove as much rust as possible and painted them with gun coat paint.

Decayed and unusable pipes and used pipes that were even painted.

Decayed and unusable pipes and used pipes that were even painted.

Oil pan gasket production

I knew that the oil pan gasket was discontinued this time, so I wondered whether to ask a store that produces discontinued gaskets or not to remove the oil pan. Since the gasket will be needed in the future, I thought it might be necessary to be able to make it myself, so I obtained a film cutter that I have wanted for 20 years from an online auction. I got a film cutter that I had been wanting for 20 years and bought it at an online auction. I challenged myself to cut it out of a generic gasket sheet.

Cutting out pattern paper

Cutting out pattern paper

The procedure involves cutting out a piece of paper with a copy of the gasket adhesive surface and scanning it with a film cutter.

Scanning and correcting in progress.

Scanning and correcting are in progress.

The imported image is slightly modified on the computer and used as the data for cutting out. I cut a general-purpose gasket sheet attached to a special backing with applicable double-sided tape using a deep cutting edge setting, but the cutting edge setting was too loose, so I ended up using an art knife and a 6mm punch to cut it out.
(The film cutter did most of the cutting, so I think it was by far the easiest thing to do.)

General-purpose gasket sheet being cut

General-purpose gasket sheet being cut

Sharpen the surface of the gasket mounting area on the oil pan with a whetstone and install it in combination with the liquid gasket. Tighten the bolts to the specified torque and you are done.
Although I made some mistakes, I can now make various gaskets and stickers by myself, and I am looking forward to the future.

Oil pan installed

Oil pan installed

Replacement of h-harness protection tube

The engine is connected to various sensors and switches, and it would be a waste to waste a clean engine if the cables were tired, and it would also be bad for water to enter the engine due to deteriorated rubber parts.

Tired harnesses

Tangled harnesses

However, most components have connectors connected to them, so to protect them with the proper size heat compression tubing, you have to cut the wiring once and set the tubing before soldering, which is a cure. Are we fixing it or breaking it? (We apologize for the inconvenience every time, but it was completely self-soldering. Sorry every time, completely at your own risk. Please note that cutting and reconnecting signal wires and ETC antennas on a new bike may prevent it from performing as it should.)
In this case, we used braided nylon protective tubing in addition to thermo-compression tubing.

Cleaned harnesses

Cleaned harnesses

Alternator refresh

The CBR1000F (SC21) uses an ordinary alternator like those found in motorcycles, rather than a generator built into the engine.

Alternator before polishing

Alternator before polishing

Since it is a relatively conspicuous part, we thought it would be cool if we painted it. So we painted it with a gun coat mixed with a primer that allows baking at 80°C. However, it failed because the paint floated after about two weeks. However, the paint started to lift after about 2 weeks, which was a failure.

Alternator with peeling gun coat paint

Alternator with peeling gun coat paint

Then, only the steel parts were coated with galvanized paint to prevent rust.

Alternator with galvanized painted steel parts

Alternator with galvanized painted steel parts

This was one case that reconfirmed the importance of temperature control during baking for gun coating.

Summary of engine refresh work

The engine was so tired that I sighed when I saw it in the garage. After confirming that the engine was in good condition, we washed, polished, sharpened, painted, burned, cut, and connected the engine.
It was all new to me and I struggled with it. I tried to clean it up as much as possible by DIY without spending a lot of money, though I was sure that experts would have told me that there are better ways to do it.
I did not achieve a shiny finish, but I am personally very satisfied with the results.

Engine after operation

Engine after operation

It may get dirty, rusty, or peeled off soon, but that will lead to an increase in experience. Thanks to the abundance of information on the web, the availability of used parts, and the availability of mail orders where you can buy anything, I have managed to proceed with work that I would have given up on 20 years ago.
There is still a lot of work to be done, but I will continue to work on it after this, believing that it will be completed someday if I keep at it.

Next time, I will be working on the regeneration of the cooling system, which I believe is the cause of this bike's immobility.

Tools and equipment used

Complete set of metal polishing environment
complete set of sandblasting
wet blasting
Gun coating complete set
Simple oven
Infrared heater
Toaster with temperature control (*Editor's note: for kitchen use)
Craft paper
Film cutter (Brother Scan Cut)
PC
Art Knife
6mm punch
Hammer
Grinding wheel
Torque wrench
Heat gun
Soldering environment set
Electric pliers

GGeneral Purpose Gasket Sheets
Liquid gasket **JP Website
Draw Paint Spray (Red)
Galvanizing Spray
Thermocompression Tubing
Elastic Nylon Protective Tubing

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