Just as engine internals and wheel bearings need proper lubrication, so do bicycle and motorcycle drive chains. Some say that grease-filled sealed chains do not need lubrication, but chain manufacturers clearly state that lubrication and oiling are necessary. There is no reason not to practice this, since cleaning the chain with a cleaner suitable for the chain when it gets dirty and lubricating it with a special chain lubricant will reduce noise and wear and extend its life.
After spraying the cleaner, thoroughly wipe off the dirt with a rag.
Spattering of chemicals is inevitable during chain cleaning and lubrication operations. Wiping off the chemicals from the wheels and tires with a rag is time-consuming and dangerous if the oil adheres to the tread surface of the tire, so it is best to place cardboard or newspaper between the chain and the wheel. In this way, you can spray without worrying about splattering.
When dirty chain lube turns into a clay-like substance and adheres to the rollers, the dirt may not be removed simply by spraying cleaner. In such cases, scrub with a nylon brush or toothbrush with soft bristles. In the case of seal chains, the use of wire brushes is strictly prohibited as they may damage the seals and lead to grease leakage.
Even though it may not look so dirty on the surface, when chain cleaner is absorbed into the chain, it is found to be dirtier than expected. Since it is difficult to lubricate the chain lubricant while the cleaner is still on the surface, it is effective to wipe it off carefully with a rag and blow air on the sliding parts of the rollers and bushings. However, avoid direct air blows on the seals, as high pressure air applied to the rubber seals will push the cleaner into the seals, which will have the opposite effect.
There is often a buildup of splattered chain lube behind the cover of the drab sprocket. Even if you think you are doing frequent chain maintenance, it would be a shame to see dirty oil rubbing against the chain, so remove the cover and clean it from time to time. At this time, check for leaks or seepage of engine oil or gear oil from behind the drive sprocket.
The drive chain is a long chain with the inner and outer plates clamped together with pins. If we look at the structure of the pin section, there is a bush on the outside of the pin, a roller on the outside of the bush, and the roller in contact with the sprocket.
In a seal chain, special grease is sealed between the pin and the bushing, and a seal ring is incorporated between the inner and outer plates to prevent grease leakage from the ends of the bushing. In a non-seal chain, on the other hand, the pin and bushing are in direct contact with each other. The sealed chain features higher wear resistance, longer life, and lower friction loss than the non-seal chain because the pin and bushing are lubricated.
The seal ring between the plates is under pressure to prevent grease leakage, so it feels heavier than the non-seal type when the tire is rotated by hand, but it is obvious that the seal chain has less resistance when the driving force is actually applied during driving. The effectiveness of the seal chain was first noticed in endurance racing in the 1970s, or rather, its development was driven by the fact that non-seal chains were reaching their limits in response to the increased load caused by increasing engine power, speed, and machine size.
It is quite the opposite in terms of this history to say that cars are equipped with sealed chains for street driving because maintenance-free performance is important, but that non-seal chains with less resistance are more advantageous for racing because the chains can be managed better. Rather, sealed chains are necessary because of the harsh racing conditions where acceleration and deceleration changes are large and the rotation continues at high speeds.
In a seal chain, there is grease between the pins and bushings, but there is no oil, grease, or other lubricating elements between the sprocket and roller contact areas or between the outside of the bushing and the inside of the roller. On top of that, gravel and dust that adhere during driving, as well as moisture from running in the rain, will adhere to the rollers and sprockets. Grease reduces pin wear, which determines the life of the chain, but cleaning and lubrication are essential to keep the rollers and sprockets clean and the rollers and bushings lubricated. Lubrication also has a rust-preventive effect, although it is very rare to see a bike with a chain covered in red rust.
Cleaning before lubrication is a common and essential part of all oil changes. Spraying chain lube on top of a coating of dirt will only deposit oil on top of dust and grit. By thoroughly removing dirt from the rollers and sprockets before giving them oil, each part can be coated without the dirt becoming abrasive.
When cleaning a seal chain, it is important to choose a product that will not damage the rubber seals. When cleaning the chain, you want to remove dirt that has gotten between the rollers and bushings, in addition to the contact surfaces between the rollers and sprockets. If the dripping cleaner contains ingredients that damage the rubber seals, it will ruin the chain. Also, do not use a wire brush to get the dirt off.
If you spray chain cleaner and wait for the dirt to run off and wipe the chain with a rag, you may be surprised to find it blackened. Also, if you turn a roller that is halfway clean with your fingers, you may feel a rough feel from the grit and other grit left between it and the bushing. The extent to which this dirt is removed is up to each individual, but cleaning should be done at least until the bushings and rollers are free of dirt and old chain lubes that prevent them from turning.
- Point 1 - Both non-seal and sealed chains require lubrication, and cleaning is essential before lubrication.
- Point 2 - Use cleaners for cleaning seal chains that do not damage rubber seals.
Lubricate the chain lube by targeting areas that need lubrication.
Since we are cleaning and lubricating, we should also check the amount of chain deflection in conjunction with the cleaning and lubrication. Since braided elongation may be occurring, check for significant differences at multiple points, not just at one location.
When lubricating the chain lube, also include newspaper to catch splashes. Although it is difficult to see the state of application with colorless lubes, lubricate not only the surfaces of the rollers and sprockets, but also the gaps between the rollers, bushings, and plates.
When lubricating a chain that has been cleaned with chain lube, you will probably spray it while turning the rear tire. If you start the engine and put it in gear or ask someone to help you turn it, you may get a rag or your fingertips caught in it, leading to an unexpected accident.
It is especially dangerous to wipe off excess oil with a rag after spraying, as entrapment accidents can easily occur. To avoid accidents, when touching the chain under the swingarm, it is effective to turn the tire in the opposite direction from when traveling, i.e., backward, so that the chain moves from the driven sprocket to the drive sprocket side. This way, if the rag gets caught, the risk is reduced compared to turning the tire in the forward direction because of the drive sprocket cover.
When lubricating the chain lube, spray evenly so that the oil is evenly distributed not only between the rollers and sprockets, but also between the inner and outer plates, and between the rollers and bushings. If you reduce the amount of oil sprayed because you do not want dripping or splattering of chain lube, the oil will not be spread to the areas that need lubrication, and you may end up with a situation in which the oil is not spread to the areas that need lubrication.
The space between the bushings and rollers is the hardest area for oil to penetrate, but if you wipe off the excess oil with a rag after lubricating this area, the oil will be evenly distributed. Furthermore, if you wipe the outside of the outer plate with a rag that has oil adhering to it, you can expect a rust-preventive effect on the plate as well.
Chain maintenance is a simple and tedious task, but the more miles you put on the chain, the bigger difference it will make. Be sure to clean and lubricate the chain regularly before dirt builds up and makes movement difficult.
- Point 1 - Always rotate the wheel by hand when applying chain lube.
- Point 2: Penetrate chain lubrication not only on the tooth surfaces of the rollers and sprockets, but also on the gap between the inner and outer plates and the sliding surfaces of the rollers and bushings.