Here are some of the maintenance methods we’ve received from the Webike Community "MOTO HACK Maintenance" campaign that we’d like to refer to. Maybe you have an idea that you’d like to try!
In this article, I'm going to introduce the maintenance HACK from Webi-man who ride the ZRX1100. t
Motorcycle introduction and its maintenance
About the motorcycle
This is a 20+ year old ZRX1100. I have to maintain it often to keep it in good condition so that I can ride it comfortably.
Working process
Wheel bearing replacement (front only)
*Due to bad weather, I decided to work on the rear at a later date.
Working hours
About 2 hours.
Working difficulty
Medium level of difficulty
Items to use
- Bearing
Brand: NTN
Product name: 6005LLU (2 pcs) - Grease
Brand: SILKOLENE
Product name: PRO RG2 (Racing Grease)
Learn more about the work
1. Replace the bearing grease.
*There was a theory that it was better to replace the grease, and there was a theory that it was wrong to do it, but I felt that there was not much grease in the new one, so I decided to replace it.
*Be careful not to overfill with grease.
2. Remove the speedometer cable, fenders, and brake calipers.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Remove the circlip.
5. Set the bearing puller and pull the bearing out.
*If the wheel is hard, spray the gap between the bearing and the wheel with a lubricating spray such as 556 to penetrate the space between the bearing and the wheel to make it a little easier to release the wheel.
6. Take out the collar and pull out the other bearing.
7. Shave off the outer circumference of one of the removed bearings to make one with a smaller outer diameter.
*It may be difficult to see in the picture, but I've sanded down the perimeter with a sander to make it smaller.
8. Put the old bearing, which was cut down earlier, on top of the new bearing and press-fit the right side first until it reaches the bottom.
*The blog of the person I referred to said to chill the bearings in the freezer to shrink them, but I skipped that process because they were going to be back to normal by the time I set it on the wheels and started working on it.
9. Put the collar in and press-fit the other side.
*If you over-tighten it, not only will the bearing not move smoothly, but it may also damage the bearing, so be careful not to over-tighten it.
10. Once the bearing is in, put the speedometer gear drive back in, fit the new circlip, and press the grease seal to the trough position.
11: Finish by attaching the wheels to the forks and putting the fenders and other parts back together.
[Precautions and tips for work]
During the work, it is necessary to put a square or other material under the wheel to avoid scratching the wheel and damaging the brake discs. The most difficult part was the amount of press fit. You have to stop at the right place, so it's best to work carefully at the end. Also, if you hit the bearing to insert it, you may damage the bearing if you hit the inner ring, so it may be necessary to apply an appropriate object to it.
Advice
I used a combination of double-threaded bars and washers sold in the building materials section of a home improvement center and tightened it to press fit the bearing. There may be a way to tap into the bearing by applying a PVC pipe of appropriate diameter to it, but I think it is easier to insert the bearing by tightening it.
As for the bearing, I used the same size of the same size as the original. Some people say "it has to be OEM" because of what the load is, but so far I haven't had any problems with it, so I think it should be fine. If you are concerned, please use the OEM product. Also, if you are like me, please check the dimensions carefully and use them at your own risk if you use the non-genuine ones.
I feel that the motorcycle is now lighter to maneuver. If you're feeling heavy on the motorcycle, you might want to try a bearing replacement.
Thank you, Webi-man, for posting this valuable maintenance HACK! You will receive 1,500 points to be used at Webike!
