Preventive Maintenance to Stabilize the Wiring Harness Connections

Even on older models, the condition of the electrical wiring terminals tends to deteriorate depending on the storage conditions of the motorcycle. Corrosion, deterioration, and contamination of the contact area between the terminals can cause resistance to the flow of electricity, which can lead to problems such as valve breakage or heat generated by wiring resistance that can melt the coupler.

In the worst-case scenario, the wiring may catch fire, and a case of "main harness replacement" is also possible. In this article, I will introduce the inspection and maintenance techniques to stabilize the wiring harness connections (couplers and connectors) and to avoid valve bulb-out problems as much as possible.

A small amount is applied to the back of the headlight bulb.

When I blew on the air at a traffic light, the headlight flickered in increments (on and off repeatedly), so I removed the headlight bulb and cleaned the socket with a wire brush.

Furthermore, by applying carbon grease to the bulb terminals to stabilize conductivity, contact between the contacts of the bulbs is stabilized and the headlights are restored. Never apply a thick layer of paint.

A small amount is also applied to the wiring terminals of the coupler.

After washing the motorcycle, it's a good idea to not only wipe down the exterior parts but also do occasional wiring maintenance. Remove each coupler one by one and clean the terminals with parts cleaner. You can then apply a very small amount of carbon grease, pull the coupler in and out several times, and wipe it down with a rag.

Electric grease is sold at a national chain tool shop, Straight. A small amount is applied to the contact area of the terminals, and the coupler can be inserted and removed several times to remove dirt from the surface in order to pursue stable conductivity.

Copper = Copper powder kneaded into COPASLIP

Originally developed for preventing bolt seizure and galling, the COPASLIP is designed to prevent bolts from seizing and galling. It is manufactured by kneading copper powder into heat-resistant grease. It can be applied to the contact surface of the battery terminal block tightening bolts and terminals to stabilize the flow of electricity.

The battery terminals are the first area prone to corrosion. Loose bolts on the terminals reduce the flow of electricity, so tightening the bolts is the first regular inspection point (retightening). When tightening the terminals, it is best to apply a current-stabilizing chemical to the bolt threads and terminal contacts and tighten them. Wipe off any chemicals that have been hammered out after tightening with a rag.

Actually, the tips of the "worn" bulb terminals

The tips of the turn signal bulb and tail lamp bulb terminals on the hardware socket are often "worn" by friction with the valve socket side terminals. As the wear progresses, the area of contact with the socket-side terminals increases, and under such conditions, conductivity is reduced when vibration occurs. For worn valve tips, use a flat-file to shave off the burr on the edge to improve the stability of conductivity.

It's important to have a socket that's not hammered, whether it's old or new.

Even after replacing the bulbs with new ones, there are a surprising number of lamp lighting problems, such as unsteady turn signals and tail lights, or irregular blinking while driving vibrations and blanking. One of the causes of such an unstable operation is the rattling of the lamp socket section. After setting the valve, shake your head and try to adjust it to the perfect size by pinching the socket side with a pair of pliers when the valve swings.

There are a number of Sunday mechanics who hate electrical maintenance.

For example, the headlights "turn on and off" when driving at night, and the neutral indicator light turns on and off when blowing on empty when in neutral at a traffic light. I'm sure there are many riders who have experienced this situation before. Many riders have also had the experience of riding from normal to full throttle, where the headlights seem to come on amazingly brightly.

This symptom can be seen as a common phenomenon, especially in 6V battery motorcycles. Many such causes are "degradation of the battery itself". While driving day and night, the electricity generated by the engine's rotation is charged to the battery. However, if the battery level is low, or if the battery fluid has dried up after riding for a long time with no maintenance, it won't charge properly, and all of the electricity generated will go around the body circuitry, causing it to become over-current and over-voltage, and before you know it, all of the bulbs, the light bulbs, will be "out of bulbs"!

Try to keep in mind that battery level height = lower to high level on a regular basis.
Also, when you get close to the lower level, you have to match the battery fluid level with a special battery refill or enhancement product. It is also important to maintain and inspect the condition of the battery, especially in older moped class motorcycles, as 6V models have a tendency to dry up the battery fluid.

The contacts move as a result of running vibrations, sometimes wearing out, sometimes due to corrosion, which reduces the conductivity of the contacts. Especially in the case of old-style connector terminal contacts and hardware valves, it should be considered unavoidable. The current models have considerably less trouble than in the past due to the use of waterproof connectors and wedge balls.

The old motorcycle boom is no longer just a passing fad. It's now common knowledge that you have to overcome electrical problems in order to win the old motorcycle. That's why we want to enjoy the life of our beloved old motorcycle for many years to come by performing rudimentary and commonplace electrical maintenance on a regular basis.