Be Cautious with Chain-Cutting Process Despite Relying on Tools to Ensure a Great Job!

How to

There are many situations where you cannot do a good job of motorcycle maintenance without special or specialized tools on hand, such as when you need to cut the chain to change the secondary reduction ratio, or when you need to connect a chain joint. It is easy to become overly dependent on the tool, but it is important to remember to take care of the tool before and after use. Because it is a great tool with high performance, it is important to keep it in good condition and use it for a long time.

There are different types of drive chain tools.


Drive chain tool made by Tool Company Straight. Special tool for cutting and joint caulking of drive chains. 3 types of pins of Φ2.2/Φ2.9/Φ3.8mm are used to push out the pins of link connections when cutting chains. Some chain cutters are designed to push out the link pins by hitting them with a hammer, while others, like this product, are designed to push out the special pins and screw in the bolts.

Press the holder and screw in the pin to cut



A special pin for cutting the chain is set in a threaded holder. The spring that is incorporated into the pin is an idea to quickly pull the pin out of the chain bushing when the tension is released when it is pushed in. Set the pin for the part to be cut in the receiving hole of the cutter body, and turn the threaded holder with your fingertip to eliminate the rattle with the chain. Then, by slowly turning the handle that pushes in the cut pin, the caulked pin is pushed out with a jerk. If you have a thin 420 or 428 size drive chain in the moped or moped 2 class, you can push the pin out relatively easily.

Press-fit and fix the side plate of the joint

Most of the 415/420/428 chains for moped class small-displacement vehicles are of the type where the side plate of the joint is set with the fingertips and then the releasing clip is clicked into place to secure it. On the other hand, most of the 428 chains for 520/50/530 size or middle class cars have a caulking type joint, where the side plates of the joint are press-fit onto two pins and then the connecting pins are caulked. Even if it is a clip joint type, when it comes to the 50 series, most of the type nowadays press-fit-fasten the side plates (in the past, there were chains for large models with joints like those of the moped class). When press-fitting the side plate, check the press-in status with calipers to make sure it is the same width as the surrounding chain to avoid "under-press-fitting" or "over-press-fitting. Press-fitting all at once often results in failure. Too much press-in will increase the bending resistance of the joint, which is not good.

Pin caulking is a combination of special pieces


After press fitting the side plate of the chain joint and matching the width of the surrounding chain and the left and right plates, it is time to caulk the pin. If the pin on the opposite side of the press-fitted side plate is not firmly supported, the entire pin will be pushed out during caulking. Too much caulking will cause poor joint link operability, so check the amount of caulking visually as you proceed. If the diameter of the pin end before caulking is measured with calipers, it is easier to understand the amount of caulking after actual work. Since each tool manufacturer has its own characteristics, read the user's manual of each manufacturer thoroughly before starting work.

"To prolong the life of your tools!!

☆ Attention!☆

When using special tools for drive chains, we are often distracted by the "caulking operation" and rush to cut the chain. Originally, the chain cutter can push out the link pin if it is used as it is. However, with thicker drive chains such as the 50 and 60 series, forcing the caulked pins through can easily damage the cutting pins and threaded parts of the special tool (the threaded pins can become bent or distorted, making them unusable). Also, the threaded part is subjected to high pressure, which can cause galling and burning. To avoid such problems and prolong the life of the special tool, use a disc grinder to remove the caulked part of the pin that you want to push out when cutting, regardless of the chain size. This kind of care will prolong the life of the special tool without putting too much stress on it. Be sure to apply a small amount of molybdenum disulfide grease to the threads on the handle side.

 
POINT
  • Point 1・ The instruction manual is included in the special tool, so be sure to read it before starting work.
  • Point 2 - To keep the tool in good condition, be sure to grease it up before use!
  • Point 3・Shave off the caulking of the pin of the chain cutting part with a disc grinder before starting the cutting work, and make the special tool last longer!

The evolution of motorcycle performance is inextricably linked to the evolution of drivetrain components, and in the 1960s the development of high-performance tires became an urgent necessity, which led to the development of the 200 km/h top speed/In the 1960s, engine performance and potential driving performance could not keep pace with drivetrain parts, and motorcycles were designed for high performance. In the 1960s, driveline parts could not keep up with engine performance and potential running performance, and no matter how many high-performance bikes were designed, tires would burst and drive chains would break because they could not withstand the engine power. =No matter how many high-performance bikes were designed, tires would burst and drive chains would break because they could not withstand the engine power.

Honda CB750 and Kawasaki Mach H1/One of the most important aspects of the H2 and the 900-Z1 is the innovation and hard work of the tire and drive chain manufacturers. Technology was constantly evolving, and there was a constant chase between bike designers and component developers.

In particular, the drive chain is a component that is extremely important to maintain on a daily basis. There is a procedure for this maintenance, which should be kept in mind. The first step is to "clean the chain". The first step is to clean the chain, and the second step is to lubricate the chain with grease (chain lube). In the past, there were products that sprayed the chain grease, but it would scatter when the car ran. In today's world where there are many high performance chemicals, chain grease that does not scatter easily is the norm.

It is also important to warm up the chain sufficiently during the test run in order to ensure that the drive chain grease penetrates into the links. When cleaning a dirty chain, it is also easier to remove dirt if the chain is warmed up during a test run before cleaning, rather than working on it when it is cold. It is always important to think about how to work efficiently and effectively. It is important to think about this before proceeding with the work.

Here we would like to focus on the drive chain tool. Without this special tool, it is impossible to "cut the drive chain" safely and securely. Also, it is not possible to press-fit the joint plate. Furthermore, it is not possible to caulk the joint pin for finishing. Because this is such an important tool, it is important to keep using it for a long time.

However, they are often handled roughly or left unused, and there are many cases where the cutting pin is bent or the push-in screw is damaged, resulting in operation failure. Because it is the most frequently used tool, it is important to maintain it properly on a daily basis. Let's pay attention to wiping, polishing, lubricating and maintenance of important special tools once in a while.

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